Activity Over The Break

My parents and I were supposed to go to Mexico for a week during break, but we had a family emergency and had to cancel last minute. If all goes well, we were able to reschedule the trip for April, so I am looking forward to that. On the bright side, I was able to go back home and surf. For my birthday I finally got a new surfboard that I had been wanting for a really long time, and to certain extent I truly needed it in order to improve my performance because the one I had was simply too thick and wide, which made it stiff and really hard for me to pull any maneuvers. March had 2 really good weeks of swell and offshore, so I was stoked to get amazing waves with my new surfboard, they were truly some of the best sessions in my life and I surfed really well, pulling really good turns, and catching the biggest waves of the sets. The only downside to those heavenly 2 weeks was that I was still in school, which meant I could only surf really little before school and only a few hours afterwards, and also the water was cold from the offshore winds so I had to surf with a 2 mil spring suit. Towards the end of the month, the wind started switching onshore in the afternoons so the warm water came back. The first week and a half of break the waves weren’t great, and I was stuck in the whole family chaos, but then a swell came and ti started getting better. The conditions weren’t my favorite, it is starting to look more like the rainy season so the offshore wind was gone and it is crazy how much wind direction and conditions truly affect waves. So far there have been some really good days of swell, and in the morning there might even be a light offshore breeze, which makes me super happy, but either way I am happy just being in the ocean. The ocean is super warm, it is almost just gross how warm it is because it doesn’t even feel refreshing to go in, and it has been kind of cloudy but not a lot of rain. I like to stay active so I have gone on a bike ride with my mom and worked out at home the other days, after my surf sessions. I have been surfing in between 3-5 hours daily the past week and I am just super stoked having a lot of fun, but also making my study notes for Bachi which is really soon so I have been trying to find a balance between relaxing, doing the activities I like, and still working a little bit on school stuff. I already got a really bad sunburn even though I apply sunscreen but no sunscreen lasts as long as my sessions do, and when the waves are going off there is no time to run back home for a little more sunscreen. It is quite the physical challenge staying out for so long because with the heat my body gets dehydrated and I start getting hungry too, but if the waves are good there is no way I am leaving until the wind switches or the tide gets too low! Starting the day surfing sets me up for a good day because I start by doing what I love the most and specially since the waves have been fun I get super excited by the good waves I catch and it puts me in a great mood for the rest of the day. When the waves are bad, it puts me in a bad mood but it makes me be even more grateful for those days of good waves.

Learning outcomes: Strengths and areas for growth, Commitment and perseverance
Learner profiles: Reflective, Balanced, Open-minded

Created By: Rochelle, Costa Rica

Uploaded To: Save the mangrove

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