Journal Entry #21 – Noah

Over break my activity of choice was definitely surfing. I surfed more than anything, more than relaxing by the pool or sleeping or eating. For some this might be alarming, i’m sure my family and friends were wondering how I would like surfing that much and how could wake up before the sun during Christmas break. But for me, this is a dream come true, free days with nothing to do and clean, crisp and cold winter waves coming directly to my doorstep. When the waves are good during break or during a time that you can surf a lot is when you get better and it is relieving to not have to do worry about something stressful that you have to do. Also since I dont compete and haven’t really thought about competitive surfing I am the guy having the most fun out there, yelling jokes at my friends on the waves and paddling up and down the beach with a crazy grin on my face. On the other side of this is the meditative side of surfing that I often tap into. This side of surfing finds me in the early mornings when there is no one else in the water but me. You can find me closing my eyes or humming to myself, while calmly yet quickly paddling for the beautiful glass walls that roll towards me. It seems weird that I would write about this activity for this break because in reality surfing is something I do no matter what, break or no break. This activity is vital to my life and without it I would lose a valuable de-stresser and one of my closest connections to the environment.

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